Bearded Dragon (Pogona vitticeps)
Bearded
dragons originate from Australia. They
are from the inland region of Central Australia. They are found in their natural habitat often
basking during the day either on branches or on rocks. During periods of extreme heat they will
burrow underground to cool off. The
bearded dragon is diurnal (awake during the daytime) and an omnivore-meaning it
eats both plant and animal matter. The
animal matter it typically eats are insects, smaller reptiles or mammals.
This dragon is missing her arm due to an injury.
Whether you get your dragon from a breeder, pet store or from an online sale the things you need to look for are pretty consistent. The first thing you must look for is alertness. If it cannot lift its head or is very lethargic then there is something probably wrong with the dragon. The bearded dragon should be watchful and have bright and alert eyes, free of crust or any discharge. Look for any obvious signs of injury, external parasites, burns or “nips.” The dragon above has some significant and minor nips. These can be overcome if there is no infection and the injury is healed. It is generally recommended to get a dragon that has had some time to grow as baby dragons are very fragile and can be very hard to care for.
Before a shed your dragon’s appearance may change, it may get duller and the coloring will change (see above picture the back leg of the dragon is duller in appearance). The may often puff themselves up, in what appears to be a strange phenomenon of gulping air and puffing out their beard. This allows them to facilitate shedding their skin. It is also not uncommon for them to puff out their eyes when shedding their head. Bathing your bearded dragon regularly especially during pre-shed and during shed time will help facilitate shedding. Most captive environments don’t provide the same moisture qualities that the natural environment does and the shed may dry faster than it would in nature. Do not remove any of the shed skin off your bearded dragon. Provide something in your bearded dragon’s enclosure that they can rub themselves against (something with texture like a log or half round wooden hide) Pulling any shed skin, while it may be tempting to do so, may damage the scales underneath if it is not ready to come off. Retained Sheds: Sometimes the toes and tip of the tail need help to shed completely. This retained shed can constrict the blood flow to the area and kill the tissue underneath. This does not mean pick the skin off. The best way to help with a retained shed is to soak the affected area and gently rub it. Repeat this process for several days. If you are uncomfortable doing this or if the shed is blocking your dragons nose, you should consider having a veterinarian with experience working with herps address the issue.
The defecation cycle of your bearded dragon will change with age and feeding frequency. A hatchling and young juvenile may defecate several times a day while an adult may go several days in-between bowel movements.
During the winter months, a bearded dragon may choose to brumate. It is a type of hibernation that may not occur in every captive dragon as the light and heat provided is consistent. If your dragon does appear to want to brumate then make sure that he or she has a clear fecal exam and a wellness check by your vet. Your dragon will more than likely hide during this time.
The defecation cycle of your bearded dragon will change with age and feeding frequency. A hatchling and young juvenile may defecate several times a day while an adult may go several days in-between bowel movements.
During the winter months, a bearded dragon may choose to brumate. It is a type of hibernation that may not occur in every captive dragon as the light and heat provided is consistent. If your dragon does appear to want to brumate then make sure that he or she has a clear fecal exam and a wellness check by your vet. Your dragon will more than likely hide during this time.
Always let your bearded dragon see your hand before you pick them up. Allow any new dragon a few days to acclimate to their new home before handling them. You can begin to introduce your hand to their enclosure and once they are comfortable with that, use slow and gentle movements to increase contact. Always ensure you support your dragon’s front and back legs while holding them. A dragon that doesn’t have the support they need may panic and scratch their owner. Also always be prepared for a bearded dragon that might jump, serious injuries or even an injury that can result in death can occur if proper handling techniques are not used.
Depending on the care and health of your dragon the size can vary greatly. Two dragons who have born from the same clutch, given different husbandry and feeding can vary in size greatly. Unless you know your dragons hatch date the age can vary. Hatchlings are about 4” long. Adults can be from 18-22 inches long, but without proper husbandry and feeding have been known to be much smaller. An approximate age can be determined by looking at growth charts found at http://www.beautifuldragons.com/Growth.html
Many people want to create the natural habitat of their bearded dragon in their enclosure environment. A baby dragon should be housed in a 20 gallon tank, this size that can provide the proper thermoregulation gradient. An adult dragon needs a minimum of a 40 gallon breeder tank and ideally a 4’x2’x2’ enclosure. Cohabitation of dragons is not recommended as dominance often plays a factor and many dragons have been injured or killed as a result. Purchasing two dragons is not recommended unless you are ready to purchase all of the equipment for two separate enclosures.
Substrate is often highly debated. Safe substrates that have no risk of impaction are paper towels (great for baby and juvenile dragons especially since they defecate more often), slate tiles, other tiles, linoleum, non-adhesive shelf liner, reptile carpet (although the carpet with loops can sometimes snag dragon toenails). NOT recommended are sand, calcium sand, crushed walnut shell, corn cob, bark or any other loose substrate that has the potential for ingestion and impaction. Impaction is a potentially deadly blockage of the intestinal tract. Accessories that are needed are a basking area and a hide to get away from the lights. There are many other objects that can be used in reptile tanks, fake plants, branches, etc. Be sure that the items you use are secure so that your dragon cannot hurt themselves as they are often happy climbers.
Bearded dragons have specific light requirements, basking/heat light is one of them. Temperatures in the tank should be around 95-105 degrees in the basking spot. In order to properly digest their food, they must have a temperature of at least 95 degrees. The cool end of the tank should be around 80-84 degrees. Night heat is not needed unless your house temperatures go below 60 degrees. They will be more comfortable in the low 70’s at night however. If you need to provide night heat, the use of a ceramic heat emitter is recommended as opposed to the red night light, which can affect their sleep cycle. The best way to measure temperatures are digital temperature gauges or temperature guns. Dial gauges can be off by 20 degrees or more, which could lead to cooking or freezing your dragon unintentionally. Not only do they need light for heat (basking light) but they need a specialized bulb that provides UVB light. For UVB lights, coil bulbs are not recommended as they can damage your bearded dragon’s eyes and have been known to have either minimal or exceedingly high outputs of UVB. ReptiSun 10.0 fluorescent bulb and the Arcadia D3 12% fluorescent are the UVB bulbs of choice among the majority of bearded dragon keepers. UVB lights should be mounted inside the dragon's enclosure, as through glass or screen will filter out the essential UVB. Ideally, their UVB light source should be within 8 inches of their basking spot.
A red night light is not recommended as the light will disturb their sleep cycle. Light cycles should be consistent. There is some difference between owners on length of daylight and nightlight, 12/12 or other cycles. Humidity levels should be between 30 and 60 percent. Having a humidity gauge in the enclosure is important. If you choose to provide water in your dragon’s tank be sure to change it daily or more frequently should you notice your dragon has defecated in it. Cleaning the enclosure is very important and it is recommended that a thorough cleaning be done regularly to avoid any illness.
Safe Staple foods (plant based): Alfalfa Plant (not sprouts), Cactus Pad/Leaf (Raw), Cactus Pear (Prickly Pear), Collard Greens, Dandelion Greens, Endive, Escarole, Mustard Greens, Squash (Butternut, Acorn, Hubbard, Scallop, Spaghetti and Summer) and Turnip Greens. Safe Insects: Crickets, roaches (dubia are the most common feeder roach), silkworms, Phoenix worms, wax worms (used sparingly as a treat), horn worms, butterworms, superworms (once your dragon is over 16” in length).
The rule of thumb for bearded dragons on size of insect prey is that it should be smaller than the space between the eyes. When in doubt, feed smaller size prey vs. larger to avoid a fatal impaction. Baby and Juvenile bearded dragons should be fed insects several times a day. Baby dragons should be allowed to eat as much as they can eat in 15 minutes time (which can be quite a lot of insects) three times a day. Juveniles can eat 2-3 times a day the same amount. You will need to dust the feeder insects with calcium one feeding a day, five times a week. You can alternate calcium with Vit. D3 and calcium without Vit. D3. Twice a week, one feeding a day with a multivitamin. The easiest thing to do is supplement Mon. - Fri. with the calcium and Sat. and Sun. with the multivitamin. Once your draqon reaches adulthood then you need to supplement with the cacium 3 days a week and with the multivitamin 1 day a week. Appropriate vegetable staples should be offered every day, if they don’t eat it continue to offer it every day. Sometimes you can “trick” a dragon into eating a green by moving it like an insect, putting a worm in the greens dish, etc. Feeding the greens in the morning when they are most hungry often is helpful in getting them to eat their greens. Baby and Juvenile diets should be compromised of 80% insect and 20% plant/vegetable. This reverses as the bearded ages and gets anywhere from 1 year to 18 months. Some dragons change their eating habits on their own, but adult diet is recommended 20% insect and 80% vegetable/plant.
Bearded dragons are known for many of their endearing behaviors. Two of the most common are head bobbing and arm waving. Head bobbing is often a dragon showing of his/her dominance and males do this most frequently. Arm waving is also a common gesture that dragons do. This is thought to be a sign of submission although many people take it for them waving hello! So if your dragon is waving at you, it is very likely acknowledging that you are the dominant one in the relationship.
While many pet stores will suggest that bearded dragons are great beginner animals for those interested in reptiles it is not as simple as buying a pre-made kit and adding a dragon. These kits are often ill equipped with the recommended habitat requirements and many owners find that once they do the research, they end up buying everything different in the kit with very little salvageable for use for a healthy dragon. It is important that bearded dragon owners take the time to research the proper care of their animals and have the resources to adequately provide their needs. They are considered Moderate when considering reptile care experience level, meaning some reptile experience for at least one year. They are considered moderate in husbandry needs; meaning- could require more space, more cleaning, specialized diet, complex environment, will tolerate handling in brief intervals.
Bearded dragons can be sexed by gently lifting their tails to approximately 90 degrees up. Do not force this, as you can hurt your dragon if you are not gentle. If there is one lump on their tail above their vent, then you most likely have a female. If you see two bumps, it is likely a male. Also males will have prominent femoral pores. Sexing your dragon resources can be found at: http://www.beardeddragon.org/articles/sexing/
Even without breeding a bearded dragon female can lay eggs. It is important to be aware of the signs that your female may be ready to lay eggs. Signs that your dragon may be prepared to lay eggs: restlessness, digging, tear shaped body, palpable lumps and weight gain. Providing a proper lay box is important for a female ready to lay eggs. Not having proper conditions could result in egg binding, this could require surgery, or worst case scenario if left untreated could cause the death of your dragon. When in doubt, take your bearded dragon to the vet for proper care.
Common ailments seen in bearded dragons are: Vitamin A Toxicity (Vitamin A overdose), Hypothiaminosis (vitamin B1 deficiency), Dystocia –(egg binding), Constipation, Diarrhea, Parasites, Metabolic Bone Disease, MDB (imbalance of vitamin D3, calcium and phosphorus) and inadequate UVB lighting, Mouth Rot, Respiratory Infections, Shedding Problems, Thermal Burns, Adenovirus & Yellow Fungus. Whenever you have a concern about your bearded dragon's health you should take him/her to a qualified veterinarian who specializes in herpetology.
Depending on the care and health of your dragon the size can vary greatly. Two dragons who have born from the same clutch, given different husbandry and feeding can vary in size greatly. Unless you know your dragons hatch date the age can vary. Hatchlings are about 4” long. Adults can be from 18-22 inches long, but without proper husbandry and feeding have been known to be much smaller. An approximate age can be determined by looking at growth charts found at http://www.beautifuldragons.com/Growth.html
Many people want to create the natural habitat of their bearded dragon in their enclosure environment. A baby dragon should be housed in a 20 gallon tank, this size that can provide the proper thermoregulation gradient. An adult dragon needs a minimum of a 40 gallon breeder tank and ideally a 4’x2’x2’ enclosure. Cohabitation of dragons is not recommended as dominance often plays a factor and many dragons have been injured or killed as a result. Purchasing two dragons is not recommended unless you are ready to purchase all of the equipment for two separate enclosures.
Substrate is often highly debated. Safe substrates that have no risk of impaction are paper towels (great for baby and juvenile dragons especially since they defecate more often), slate tiles, other tiles, linoleum, non-adhesive shelf liner, reptile carpet (although the carpet with loops can sometimes snag dragon toenails). NOT recommended are sand, calcium sand, crushed walnut shell, corn cob, bark or any other loose substrate that has the potential for ingestion and impaction. Impaction is a potentially deadly blockage of the intestinal tract. Accessories that are needed are a basking area and a hide to get away from the lights. There are many other objects that can be used in reptile tanks, fake plants, branches, etc. Be sure that the items you use are secure so that your dragon cannot hurt themselves as they are often happy climbers.
Bearded dragons have specific light requirements, basking/heat light is one of them. Temperatures in the tank should be around 95-105 degrees in the basking spot. In order to properly digest their food, they must have a temperature of at least 95 degrees. The cool end of the tank should be around 80-84 degrees. Night heat is not needed unless your house temperatures go below 60 degrees. They will be more comfortable in the low 70’s at night however. If you need to provide night heat, the use of a ceramic heat emitter is recommended as opposed to the red night light, which can affect their sleep cycle. The best way to measure temperatures are digital temperature gauges or temperature guns. Dial gauges can be off by 20 degrees or more, which could lead to cooking or freezing your dragon unintentionally. Not only do they need light for heat (basking light) but they need a specialized bulb that provides UVB light. For UVB lights, coil bulbs are not recommended as they can damage your bearded dragon’s eyes and have been known to have either minimal or exceedingly high outputs of UVB. ReptiSun 10.0 fluorescent bulb and the Arcadia D3 12% fluorescent are the UVB bulbs of choice among the majority of bearded dragon keepers. UVB lights should be mounted inside the dragon's enclosure, as through glass or screen will filter out the essential UVB. Ideally, their UVB light source should be within 8 inches of their basking spot.
A red night light is not recommended as the light will disturb their sleep cycle. Light cycles should be consistent. There is some difference between owners on length of daylight and nightlight, 12/12 or other cycles. Humidity levels should be between 30 and 60 percent. Having a humidity gauge in the enclosure is important. If you choose to provide water in your dragon’s tank be sure to change it daily or more frequently should you notice your dragon has defecated in it. Cleaning the enclosure is very important and it is recommended that a thorough cleaning be done regularly to avoid any illness.
Safe Staple foods (plant based): Alfalfa Plant (not sprouts), Cactus Pad/Leaf (Raw), Cactus Pear (Prickly Pear), Collard Greens, Dandelion Greens, Endive, Escarole, Mustard Greens, Squash (Butternut, Acorn, Hubbard, Scallop, Spaghetti and Summer) and Turnip Greens. Safe Insects: Crickets, roaches (dubia are the most common feeder roach), silkworms, Phoenix worms, wax worms (used sparingly as a treat), horn worms, butterworms, superworms (once your dragon is over 16” in length).
The rule of thumb for bearded dragons on size of insect prey is that it should be smaller than the space between the eyes. When in doubt, feed smaller size prey vs. larger to avoid a fatal impaction. Baby and Juvenile bearded dragons should be fed insects several times a day. Baby dragons should be allowed to eat as much as they can eat in 15 minutes time (which can be quite a lot of insects) three times a day. Juveniles can eat 2-3 times a day the same amount. You will need to dust the feeder insects with calcium one feeding a day, five times a week. You can alternate calcium with Vit. D3 and calcium without Vit. D3. Twice a week, one feeding a day with a multivitamin. The easiest thing to do is supplement Mon. - Fri. with the calcium and Sat. and Sun. with the multivitamin. Once your draqon reaches adulthood then you need to supplement with the cacium 3 days a week and with the multivitamin 1 day a week. Appropriate vegetable staples should be offered every day, if they don’t eat it continue to offer it every day. Sometimes you can “trick” a dragon into eating a green by moving it like an insect, putting a worm in the greens dish, etc. Feeding the greens in the morning when they are most hungry often is helpful in getting them to eat their greens. Baby and Juvenile diets should be compromised of 80% insect and 20% plant/vegetable. This reverses as the bearded ages and gets anywhere from 1 year to 18 months. Some dragons change their eating habits on their own, but adult diet is recommended 20% insect and 80% vegetable/plant.
Bearded dragons are known for many of their endearing behaviors. Two of the most common are head bobbing and arm waving. Head bobbing is often a dragon showing of his/her dominance and males do this most frequently. Arm waving is also a common gesture that dragons do. This is thought to be a sign of submission although many people take it for them waving hello! So if your dragon is waving at you, it is very likely acknowledging that you are the dominant one in the relationship.
While many pet stores will suggest that bearded dragons are great beginner animals for those interested in reptiles it is not as simple as buying a pre-made kit and adding a dragon. These kits are often ill equipped with the recommended habitat requirements and many owners find that once they do the research, they end up buying everything different in the kit with very little salvageable for use for a healthy dragon. It is important that bearded dragon owners take the time to research the proper care of their animals and have the resources to adequately provide their needs. They are considered Moderate when considering reptile care experience level, meaning some reptile experience for at least one year. They are considered moderate in husbandry needs; meaning- could require more space, more cleaning, specialized diet, complex environment, will tolerate handling in brief intervals.
Bearded dragons can be sexed by gently lifting their tails to approximately 90 degrees up. Do not force this, as you can hurt your dragon if you are not gentle. If there is one lump on their tail above their vent, then you most likely have a female. If you see two bumps, it is likely a male. Also males will have prominent femoral pores. Sexing your dragon resources can be found at: http://www.beardeddragon.org/articles/sexing/
Even without breeding a bearded dragon female can lay eggs. It is important to be aware of the signs that your female may be ready to lay eggs. Signs that your dragon may be prepared to lay eggs: restlessness, digging, tear shaped body, palpable lumps and weight gain. Providing a proper lay box is important for a female ready to lay eggs. Not having proper conditions could result in egg binding, this could require surgery, or worst case scenario if left untreated could cause the death of your dragon. When in doubt, take your bearded dragon to the vet for proper care.
Common ailments seen in bearded dragons are: Vitamin A Toxicity (Vitamin A overdose), Hypothiaminosis (vitamin B1 deficiency), Dystocia –(egg binding), Constipation, Diarrhea, Parasites, Metabolic Bone Disease, MDB (imbalance of vitamin D3, calcium and phosphorus) and inadequate UVB lighting, Mouth Rot, Respiratory Infections, Shedding Problems, Thermal Burns, Adenovirus & Yellow Fungus. Whenever you have a concern about your bearded dragon's health you should take him/her to a qualified veterinarian who specializes in herpetology.
beautifuldragon.com nutrition list.
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Juvenile bearded dragon with tail in shed.
Bearded Dragon Care Sheet
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A sub-adult and adult bearded dragon. The one on the left was bred for its white color, and the one on the right is a hypo orange. Photo courtesy of Big Chief Dragons.
Lighting explained with picture tutorial from BeardedDragon,org.
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Article on Brumation in the Bearded Dragon written by Denise Bushnell and featured on the website beardeddragon.org
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Rio Reptiles/beardeddragon.co care sheet.
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Hatchling dragon specific care sheet by Daichu Dragons.
A baby bearded dragon during his first shed. This shed will peel off on its own and should not be peeled off early.
Instructions for making a lay box.
International Veterinary Information Service document detailing both the healthy and unhealthy bearded dragon, with technical medical information for diagnosis and treatment. A good read for bearded dragon keepers.
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Care sheet by Tundra Dragons.
Sweet Dragons Rescue bearded dragon care sheet.
Read about Mushu the real live bearded dragon who ate a toy lizard and needed surgery to remove it. The story is from ScienceBlogs.
Bearded dragon with defensive posturing, showing open mouth. The 'teeth' that you see are not actually teeth but serrated tooth-like projections that are part of the jaw itself.
Learn about Adenovirus / Atadenovirus infection in bearded dragons
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