Planted terrariums
Article and all photographs courtesy of Mike
Rizzo of Glass Box Tropicals.
Rizzo of Glass Box Tropicals.
-- Planning, Planting, & Care --
Terrariums planted with live plants are becoming increasingly popular. Plants can improve the life of your animals while making the enclosure more aesthetically appealing. Plants are capable of producing oxygen for your animals, removing excess nutrients from the substrate, increasing humidity, providing areas for hiding, egg laying sites, as well as providing many other benefits.
Planning:
The first step when considering a terrarium planted with live plants is planning. The size of the tank, the type of animal(s) you will have in it and of course the types of plants are all important in tank planning.
Why is the size of your enclosure important?
The size of your enclosure will dictate what types of plants that you will be able to use. Some plants get very large, others stay very small. There are plants that have mature leaves that are less than ⅛” in diameter, and other plants that have leaves larger than an 3’. Thus once you have chosen an enclosure, you can begin to look at which plants will fit within your parameters.
Why is the type of animal important?
The type of animal you will be keeping in the enclosure is an extremely important factor. Some
animals are known for being harder on plants than others, and the size of the animal also
impacts planting choices. Obviously, a thumbnail poison dart frog (nick named this because
they are the size of your thumbnail as adults) will do much less damage to plants than a veiled
chameleon.
Terrariums planted with live plants are becoming increasingly popular. Plants can improve the life of your animals while making the enclosure more aesthetically appealing. Plants are capable of producing oxygen for your animals, removing excess nutrients from the substrate, increasing humidity, providing areas for hiding, egg laying sites, as well as providing many other benefits.
Planning:
The first step when considering a terrarium planted with live plants is planning. The size of the tank, the type of animal(s) you will have in it and of course the types of plants are all important in tank planning.
Why is the size of your enclosure important?
The size of your enclosure will dictate what types of plants that you will be able to use. Some plants get very large, others stay very small. There are plants that have mature leaves that are less than ⅛” in diameter, and other plants that have leaves larger than an 3’. Thus once you have chosen an enclosure, you can begin to look at which plants will fit within your parameters.
Why is the type of animal important?
The type of animal you will be keeping in the enclosure is an extremely important factor. Some
animals are known for being harder on plants than others, and the size of the animal also
impacts planting choices. Obviously, a thumbnail poison dart frog (nick named this because
they are the size of your thumbnail as adults) will do much less damage to plants than a veiled
chameleon.
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This photo is from Wikipedia, all others are courtesy of Mike Rizzo from Glass Box Tropicals.
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And now the fun part... the plants!
When looking at plants, you will first want to decide on the look you are going for with your tank. There are background plants, typically vines, that can cover your background with a very nice, lush green curtain. Background plants may also be larger leaved or taller plants that would otherwise block out other plants when looking into the tank. There are a wide array of plants that you may use throughout the tank to add color, cover, and in general enhance the aesthetics of the tank. Also, there are foreground plants which typically stay much smaller and are used at the front of the tank. Finally, there are epiphytes which are plants that can be mounted directly onto the background or driftwood or stone, and aquatic plants. This may seem like a lot to take in, and too many options, but once you get started it gets much simpler!
When looking at plants, you will first want to decide on the look you are going for with your tank. There are background plants, typically vines, that can cover your background with a very nice, lush green curtain. Background plants may also be larger leaved or taller plants that would otherwise block out other plants when looking into the tank. There are a wide array of plants that you may use throughout the tank to add color, cover, and in general enhance the aesthetics of the tank. Also, there are foreground plants which typically stay much smaller and are used at the front of the tank. Finally, there are epiphytes which are plants that can be mounted directly onto the background or driftwood or stone, and aquatic plants. This may seem like a lot to take in, and too many options, but once you get started it gets much simpler!
Planting:
One of the first things to think about when planting is what type of substrate are you going to put the plants in. Many people choose to use an ABG (Atlanta Botanical Gardens) mix. This is a mix made up of milled sphagnum, fir bark, charcoal, milled peat moss, and tree fern fiber.
The mix allows for good water retention as well as good drainage. This is very important as you do not want a substrate that becomes saturated and anaerobic after too much watering. To assist in the drainage even more, many people choose to make a false bottom. This is an
area in the bottom of the tank that excess water can drain to. This can be done by using a product such as Gro-Stones or Hydroton, or even by using spaces and egg crate (a light diffuser
material sold at most hardware stores). Everyone has their own preference as to which to use, I prefer the environmentally-friendly Gro-Stones, as they are made from recycled glass in the USA. The drainage layer should be placed in the tank first, followed by some sort of barrier such as weed cloth to prevent the substrate from falling into the false bottom. You should moisten the substrate before placing it in the tank. It should be damp but not dripping if you pick up a handful. The substrate is then placed on top of the weed cloth. The depth of the layers depends on your desired plants and layout, I like to have approximately a 3” drainage layer and a 2 to 3” layer of substrate.
One of the first things to think about when planting is what type of substrate are you going to put the plants in. Many people choose to use an ABG (Atlanta Botanical Gardens) mix. This is a mix made up of milled sphagnum, fir bark, charcoal, milled peat moss, and tree fern fiber.
The mix allows for good water retention as well as good drainage. This is very important as you do not want a substrate that becomes saturated and anaerobic after too much watering. To assist in the drainage even more, many people choose to make a false bottom. This is an
area in the bottom of the tank that excess water can drain to. This can be done by using a product such as Gro-Stones or Hydroton, or even by using spaces and egg crate (a light diffuser
material sold at most hardware stores). Everyone has their own preference as to which to use, I prefer the environmentally-friendly Gro-Stones, as they are made from recycled glass in the USA. The drainage layer should be placed in the tank first, followed by some sort of barrier such as weed cloth to prevent the substrate from falling into the false bottom. You should moisten the substrate before placing it in the tank. It should be damp but not dripping if you pick up a handful. The substrate is then placed on top of the weed cloth. The depth of the layers depends on your desired plants and layout, I like to have approximately a 3” drainage layer and a 2 to 3” layer of substrate.
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When it comes to the actual plants, there are several very important things to remember when planting. First and foremost is that you are handling a living organism. You need to be gentle with it and be careful not to break stems or roots, or tear or otherwise injure the leaves. Next, you should water your plants immediately after planting. They have just gone through an extremely stressful event, and watering them in well will help them adjust to their new settings.
Plants are constantly respiring (losing water), thus making sure that they are well-watered helps alleviate a potential source of stress (with the caveat of succulents having slightly different care requirements). Finally, make sure as you are planting, you plan for the size of the mature plant, and not the the size that it is when you purchase it. Plants never stop growing! Many naturally stay much smaller than others, though!
When you are ready to plant, the first thing that you will want to do is clean off the substrate from the roots. Many times, plants are grown in a potting soil mix that includes things such as perlite and vermiculite which are better to not have in your tank (they may be ingested and cause issues with your animals’ digestive tract). Gently, use your fingers to clean the loose soil from the roots after removing the plant from the pot. Once you have removed the loose soil, dip it in a container of water a few times to clean off most of the remaining soil. Any remaining soil is likely bound to the roots and is generally nothing to be concerned about. At this point, some people choose to sterilize their plant material as well. *Not all plants can tolerate this treatment, if you are unsure, just ask! :)* If you choose to do this, common practice is to make a 10% bleach solution and allow the plant to soak for 5 to 10 minutes. After allowing it to soak, dip the plant in a container of clean water and rinse it. Repeat this with two more containers of clean water, then allow the plant to soak for up to half an hour in a final
container so it may take up clean, fresh water.
Your plant is now ready to go into the tank. As you plant, be sure to plant it in the proper location. If it is a vine, plant it near something it can climb. Vines are many times better off being planted in the substrate and allowed to climb up something, rather than mounting themto the background where they will not be able to root as well or get as much water or nutrients. Additionally, if you are going to add sphagnum or leaf litter over the top of your substrate that
you are planting in, you will want to plant a little high so that you are not burying the stem. Many plants cannot survive if you bury them too deeply in the substrate. Many people may also do epiphytes (plants that grow on trees, rocks, driftwood, etc.). If you have driftwood or large rock outcroppings, there are many plants that can grow and thrive in
these locations. These are often mounted by wrapping the roots in damp sphagnum in order to keep moisture near them, and then using fishing line or floral wire mounted to the object you want them to grow on. These are a great option if you do not want to have a special substrate setup for the plants, but will still like to improve the overall aesthetics! Once planted, as mentioned above, be sure to water everything in well. The plants will really appreciate this and you will lower the chances of any transplant shock occurring.
container so it may take up clean, fresh water.
Your plant is now ready to go into the tank. As you plant, be sure to plant it in the proper location. If it is a vine, plant it near something it can climb. Vines are many times better off being planted in the substrate and allowed to climb up something, rather than mounting themto the background where they will not be able to root as well or get as much water or nutrients. Additionally, if you are going to add sphagnum or leaf litter over the top of your substrate that
you are planting in, you will want to plant a little high so that you are not burying the stem. Many plants cannot survive if you bury them too deeply in the substrate. Many people may also do epiphytes (plants that grow on trees, rocks, driftwood, etc.). If you have driftwood or large rock outcroppings, there are many plants that can grow and thrive in
these locations. These are often mounted by wrapping the roots in damp sphagnum in order to keep moisture near them, and then using fishing line or floral wire mounted to the object you want them to grow on. These are a great option if you do not want to have a special substrate setup for the plants, but will still like to improve the overall aesthetics! Once planted, as mentioned above, be sure to water everything in well. The plants will really appreciate this and you will lower the chances of any transplant shock occurring.
CARE
The care of the plants in your tank will be specific to the types of plants you get. There are all types of plants with a wide variety of care needs to fit just about any type of enclosure!
LIGHTING:
Light is one of the most basic needs that ALL plants have. However, not all plants require the same amount of light, and some can thrive in many different types of lighting conditions. Plants need light in order to perform photosynthesis. Photosynthesis is the reaction that takes place within the plant that allows it to produce food/energy for itself. Without photosynthesis taking place, the plant cannot produce energy for itself to grow or to even stay alive for that matter.
Different types of plants require different levels of light. Depending on the level of light as well, the color of the plant may change from vibrant to ‘washed out.’ When you are looking at plants, be sure to take note of what type of lighting they prefer, or ask the vendor and they should be
able to tell you. To end this, the wavelength of light most terrarium enthusiasts prefer is 6500K. This is the wavelength that appears white to the eye, and is very close to natural daylight. You can buy daylight compact fluorescent bulbs at any hardware store (they are typically in a blue package). LEDs are also becoming increasingly popular and offer a lower cost of operation, as well as a lower heat output. **Also, when someone says a plant prefers a shaded location, or low light, this does not mean NO light, it just means not direct light!**
WATERING:
This is typically not an issue with terrariums, however, not all plants prefer to be wet all of the time. It is important to choose plants that can tolerate high levels of moisture being as dart frogs require a high level of humidity. Again, when you are looking at plants, be sure you are looking at choices that will do well in a terrarium. The vendor should be able to answer any questions you may have. In addition, some plants that you place in your terrarium may have special needs when it comes to watering that you will need to take into consideration. Some plants do not tolerate water
sitting on their leaves. Other plants do not tolerate cold water on their leaves when you mist (they may get water spots - such as African Violets). Finally, it is important to keep in mind that some substrates may wick water or become
saturated quicker than others. This is why many people prefer ABG for a substrate choice. The main thing to watch is that you are not allowing your substrate, no matter which you choose, to become completely saturated. When the substrate is saturated, no oxygen can reach the roots of the plants. This can cause a plant to die.
LIGHTING:
Light is one of the most basic needs that ALL plants have. However, not all plants require the same amount of light, and some can thrive in many different types of lighting conditions. Plants need light in order to perform photosynthesis. Photosynthesis is the reaction that takes place within the plant that allows it to produce food/energy for itself. Without photosynthesis taking place, the plant cannot produce energy for itself to grow or to even stay alive for that matter.
Different types of plants require different levels of light. Depending on the level of light as well, the color of the plant may change from vibrant to ‘washed out.’ When you are looking at plants, be sure to take note of what type of lighting they prefer, or ask the vendor and they should be
able to tell you. To end this, the wavelength of light most terrarium enthusiasts prefer is 6500K. This is the wavelength that appears white to the eye, and is very close to natural daylight. You can buy daylight compact fluorescent bulbs at any hardware store (they are typically in a blue package). LEDs are also becoming increasingly popular and offer a lower cost of operation, as well as a lower heat output. **Also, when someone says a plant prefers a shaded location, or low light, this does not mean NO light, it just means not direct light!**
WATERING:
This is typically not an issue with terrariums, however, not all plants prefer to be wet all of the time. It is important to choose plants that can tolerate high levels of moisture being as dart frogs require a high level of humidity. Again, when you are looking at plants, be sure you are looking at choices that will do well in a terrarium. The vendor should be able to answer any questions you may have. In addition, some plants that you place in your terrarium may have special needs when it comes to watering that you will need to take into consideration. Some plants do not tolerate water
sitting on their leaves. Other plants do not tolerate cold water on their leaves when you mist (they may get water spots - such as African Violets). Finally, it is important to keep in mind that some substrates may wick water or become
saturated quicker than others. This is why many people prefer ABG for a substrate choice. The main thing to watch is that you are not allowing your substrate, no matter which you choose, to become completely saturated. When the substrate is saturated, no oxygen can reach the roots of the plants. This can cause a plant to die.
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FERTILIZATION:
Typically, plants in a terrarium do not need fertilization. They are able to get enough from the soil naturally from the frog feces, and from microfauna breaking down leaf litter and other decaying plant material.
However, some select plants do benefit from fertilization (some orchids, and a few other select plants). If you are going to fertilize, I would recommend that you remove the plant from your tank, fertilize it and wait about a month to put it back in so that you do not add extra fertilizer into
your tank. It is important to remember that whatever you put in your tank is going to stay since it is essentially a closed ecosystem.
TRIMMING/PRUNING:
This is often overlooked, or passed over when doing other tank maintenance items. However, one needs to remember that for many plants that we use in terrariums, we are giving them ideal conditions to grow in. Typically more than enough light, warm, and high humidity. How and when you do pruning is up to you. Some people prefer an overgrown tank, others prefer it always be show quality. When you do pruning, you should always try to trim back to a node. This is basically the part of the stem where the leaf comes from. If you leave a long section of stem on top of where the
leaf is, that section will simply die and rot away. No sense in adding more decaying matter to the tank. When pruning the plants, it is also important to realize that after you trim, it will grow again, and many plants will send out several new shoots around the area that was pruned. Due to this, it is important to think ahead. If you want a plant to fill in more, you may want to trim it lower down the stem. Finally, many of the pieces that are trimmed can easily be rooted out in moist sphagnum moss and used in other areas of your terrarium, or in other terrariums.
If you still have questions, or would like more guidance, please feel free to contact me at mike@glassboxtropicals.com
Typically, plants in a terrarium do not need fertilization. They are able to get enough from the soil naturally from the frog feces, and from microfauna breaking down leaf litter and other decaying plant material.
However, some select plants do benefit from fertilization (some orchids, and a few other select plants). If you are going to fertilize, I would recommend that you remove the plant from your tank, fertilize it and wait about a month to put it back in so that you do not add extra fertilizer into
your tank. It is important to remember that whatever you put in your tank is going to stay since it is essentially a closed ecosystem.
TRIMMING/PRUNING:
This is often overlooked, or passed over when doing other tank maintenance items. However, one needs to remember that for many plants that we use in terrariums, we are giving them ideal conditions to grow in. Typically more than enough light, warm, and high humidity. How and when you do pruning is up to you. Some people prefer an overgrown tank, others prefer it always be show quality. When you do pruning, you should always try to trim back to a node. This is basically the part of the stem where the leaf comes from. If you leave a long section of stem on top of where the
leaf is, that section will simply die and rot away. No sense in adding more decaying matter to the tank. When pruning the plants, it is also important to realize that after you trim, it will grow again, and many plants will send out several new shoots around the area that was pruned. Due to this, it is important to think ahead. If you want a plant to fill in more, you may want to trim it lower down the stem. Finally, many of the pieces that are trimmed can easily be rooted out in moist sphagnum moss and used in other areas of your terrarium, or in other terrariums.
If you still have questions, or would like more guidance, please feel free to contact me at mike@glassboxtropicals.com
Thank you to Mike Rizzo for the wonderful article and for use of the photographs on this page.