tank cleaning and disinfecting
Many people do understand that there is a difference between cleaning and disinfecting. Cleaning is the washing and removing of debris and waste material. Disinfecting is the killing or minimizing of harmful bacteria, fungi, and viruses. There are several ways to disinfect, and people have their own preferences. Below are several of the options you can choose from, along with guidance to help you know what each disinfectant is effective against.
At the bottom of the page are some resources for your own information and understanding which go into further detail with their own cleaning recommendations. There are also a few more technical references that explain the different kinds of bacteria, mycobacteria and viruses so you can determine if your choice of disinfectant is effective against the pathogen that you are trying to kill. Remember it does not do any good to use an ineffective disinfectant.
At the bottom of the page are some resources for your own information and understanding which go into further detail with their own cleaning recommendations. There are also a few more technical references that explain the different kinds of bacteria, mycobacteria and viruses so you can determine if your choice of disinfectant is effective against the pathogen that you are trying to kill. Remember it does not do any good to use an ineffective disinfectant.
Bleach and ammonia
Please note it is deadly and dangerous to mix bleach and ammonia.
Bleach Bleach is great for cleaning and disinfecting, but extra care must be taken to rinse well after using bleach in an enclosure. The common dilution of bleach is one cup of bleach to one gallon of water. Bleach does not kill coccidia: you will need an ammonium chloride based cleaner. Bleach is a broad spectrum disinfectant and is effective against bacteria, mycobacteria, both enveloped and non-enveloped viruses and spores. It has limited effectiveness against fungi. Ammonia Undiluted ammonia has been considered the only disinfectant that will kill crypto within 30 minutes of contact. Crypto is extremely difficult to kill and the undiluted ammonia should be left on the surface for 20-30 minutes to ensure effectiveness. |
Vinegar / hydrogen peroxide
Chemical free alternatives for disinfecting cages. These two must be in separate spray bottles to work correctly.
Vinegar is excellent for removing lime scale deposits on aquariums. Using distilled water in your enclosures when misting your reptiles will help to keep lime scale and deposits off the glass. Hydrogen Peroxide sprayed on mold in an enclosure is a safe way to kill the mold and will also oxygenate the roots of surrounding plants. Purchase the higher concentration of 25% or greater, the diluted peroxides in the drug stores are not a great enough concentration. This article discusses using Peroxide to kill crypto. Peroxide is a broad spectrum disinfectant that is effective against bacteria, mycobacteria, enveloped and non-enveloped viruses. |
Chlorhexidine
Hibiclens is a brand name for the popular cleanser Chlorhexidrine Gluconate. The concentration commonly used is 4%. This does not kill coccidia.
Click here for our Chlorhexidine Gluconate disinfection page where specific use and instructions can be found. Be advised that Chlorhexidine is toxic to fish. Chlorhexidine has limited effectiveness against viruses and fungi, however it is a broad spectrum disinfectant that is extremely effective against bacteria. |
Steam
Steam cleaning is a very safe and effective alternative for disinfecting.
"We often don’t think twice about using chemical disinfection when dealing with animals, but if you consult a pediatrician about disinfection of baby bottles and other supplies used for human infants, the only method that is recommended is steam sterilization. No chemical methods of disinfection or sterilization are condoned." Read more at http://www.reptilechannel.com/ Steam kills bacteria, mycobacteria, viruses and fungi when used at 120-140*F. It is the preferred method for killing Atadeno and Adenovirus. In order for Steam to be effective against Adenovirus and Atadenovirus, the temperature needs to be 120-140*F and the duration of the steaming should be 10-15 minutes. |
Quaternary Ammonia Compounds
Quaternary Ammonium Compounds or 'Quats' despite the similarity in naming, a quat is not and does not contain either ammonia or the true ammonium ion but as ammonia does, it kills effectively kills coccidia, After mixing the concentrate with water, it is advised to use it within 10 days. Hard water will reduce the effectiveness of Quats over time. Spray on surface and leave for 10-20 minutes for maximum effectiveness.
Quaternary Ammonia Compounds in their typical mixes are affective against some viruses, but not Atadeno or Adenovirus. It is effective against Gram positive bacteria, but not Gram negative. It has some effectiveness against fungus, but it will kill mold. The main interest in Quaternary Ammonia Compounds is that it effectively kills coccidia, a common protozoa found in reptiles.
Quaternary Ammonia Compounds in their typical mixes are affective against some viruses, but not Atadeno or Adenovirus. It is effective against Gram positive bacteria, but not Gram negative. It has some effectiveness against fungus, but it will kill mold. The main interest in Quaternary Ammonia Compounds is that it effectively kills coccidia, a common protozoa found in reptiles.
UNDERSTANDING VIRUSES, BACTERIA, FUNGUS And other pathogens
We must be very careful about how we clean our reptiles enclosures and cage decorations because we are keeping our pet in a confined space, thereby exposing it to its own fecal matter, old food and other debris. Fecal matter can contain parasite eggs and old food can contain bacteria, and as our reptile walks around its enclosure it spreads all of that bacteria and other pathogens around the enclosure. Small fungal spores can also flourish in unsanitary conditions, such as those of an enclosure that has not had the bedding changed, or where there might be a water bowl. Certain fungal infections are difficult to cure once they are present on and inside of your reptile, so maintaining a clean environment is preventing a more serious future infection.
This section is to briefly help you understand what you are preventing when you properly disinfect your reptile's enclosures. There are reference websites where you can confirm this information and further read on your own to completely understand the subject.
Bacteria - Present in wet or dirty enclosures and contaminated bedding, bacterial infection examples are septicemia, dermatitis, cloacitis and salmonella. An untreated bacteria infection can lead to abscess, bone infections (osteomyelitis) and death. Bacteria is extremely easy to kill in an enclosure. Remove all bedding and thoroughly disinfect the enclosure with a 10% bleach solution, 4% Chlorhexidine, undiluted isopropyl alcohol, undiluted hydrogen peroxide or a quarternary ammonia compound. Be certain to read the instructions for the disinfectant that you choose, and to rinse well before placing your reptile back in the enclosure.
Viruses - Viruses are diseases that are transmitted from one reptile to another via contaminated cage furnishings, food bowls, feeders, feeding tongs or even a used enclosure or from direct contact between reptiles. For these reasons it is important to have a good quarantine plan when you bring a new reptile into your home, and to keep it in isolation for a reasonable amount of time during which you watch for symptoms of illness or actually test for disease. There are different kinds of viruses and their actual structure often determines what disinfectants will work against them. There are non-enveloped and enveloped viruses, which describe the actual cellular structure of the virus. Enveloped viruses are easier to kill, do not survive being outside of the host for very long, and often must directly transfer from one reptile to another. Non-enveloped viruses are harder to kill and can live outside of the host on cage surfaces and tools for a longer period of time. It is important to do your research and find out what virus you are disinfecting against and choose the correct disinfectant according to the actual virus structure.
Fungi or Fungus - Most often, fungus is found on reptiles as a skin condition or infection. It is transmitted by 'spores' which are somewhat like seed capsules that have a coating on them to protect them so they will reproduce. It is difficult to kill fungi spores because of this outer layer, and the best method of killing actual spores is to steam the enclosure and contaminated equipment at 120 - 140*F for 15-20 minutes. The fruiting phase of fungi is mold, so when you see mold in your enclosure, realize that you already have the spores. Mold can be killed using a 10% bleach solution or undiluted hydrogen peroxide. Fungus is also killed by iodine and betadine, which is why reptiles with a fungal infection are often soaked in a weak tea betadine solution. Fungus in an enclosure can also cause respiratory problems in reptiles, and all bedding must be removed and replaced when fungus has been found.
Please review this table, Characteristics of Specific Disinfectants, from Iowa State University. This easy to read table has each class of disinfectant listed, along with its properties, cautions, and what it is effective against.
Please refer to this article, Viruses Infecting Reptiles, from the U.S. National Library of Medicine. Every reptile virus is listed, along with its structure and method of transmission, and species affected.
Please refer to this page, Bacterial Diseases in Reptiles, from the Merck Veterinary Manual. The different kinds of bacterial infections are explained along with their prevention.
This section is to briefly help you understand what you are preventing when you properly disinfect your reptile's enclosures. There are reference websites where you can confirm this information and further read on your own to completely understand the subject.
Bacteria - Present in wet or dirty enclosures and contaminated bedding, bacterial infection examples are septicemia, dermatitis, cloacitis and salmonella. An untreated bacteria infection can lead to abscess, bone infections (osteomyelitis) and death. Bacteria is extremely easy to kill in an enclosure. Remove all bedding and thoroughly disinfect the enclosure with a 10% bleach solution, 4% Chlorhexidine, undiluted isopropyl alcohol, undiluted hydrogen peroxide or a quarternary ammonia compound. Be certain to read the instructions for the disinfectant that you choose, and to rinse well before placing your reptile back in the enclosure.
Viruses - Viruses are diseases that are transmitted from one reptile to another via contaminated cage furnishings, food bowls, feeders, feeding tongs or even a used enclosure or from direct contact between reptiles. For these reasons it is important to have a good quarantine plan when you bring a new reptile into your home, and to keep it in isolation for a reasonable amount of time during which you watch for symptoms of illness or actually test for disease. There are different kinds of viruses and their actual structure often determines what disinfectants will work against them. There are non-enveloped and enveloped viruses, which describe the actual cellular structure of the virus. Enveloped viruses are easier to kill, do not survive being outside of the host for very long, and often must directly transfer from one reptile to another. Non-enveloped viruses are harder to kill and can live outside of the host on cage surfaces and tools for a longer period of time. It is important to do your research and find out what virus you are disinfecting against and choose the correct disinfectant according to the actual virus structure.
Fungi or Fungus - Most often, fungus is found on reptiles as a skin condition or infection. It is transmitted by 'spores' which are somewhat like seed capsules that have a coating on them to protect them so they will reproduce. It is difficult to kill fungi spores because of this outer layer, and the best method of killing actual spores is to steam the enclosure and contaminated equipment at 120 - 140*F for 15-20 minutes. The fruiting phase of fungi is mold, so when you see mold in your enclosure, realize that you already have the spores. Mold can be killed using a 10% bleach solution or undiluted hydrogen peroxide. Fungus is also killed by iodine and betadine, which is why reptiles with a fungal infection are often soaked in a weak tea betadine solution. Fungus in an enclosure can also cause respiratory problems in reptiles, and all bedding must be removed and replaced when fungus has been found.
Please review this table, Characteristics of Specific Disinfectants, from Iowa State University. This easy to read table has each class of disinfectant listed, along with its properties, cautions, and what it is effective against.
Please refer to this article, Viruses Infecting Reptiles, from the U.S. National Library of Medicine. Every reptile virus is listed, along with its structure and method of transmission, and species affected.
Please refer to this page, Bacterial Diseases in Reptiles, from the Merck Veterinary Manual. The different kinds of bacterial infections are explained along with their prevention.
Dr. Foster & Smith article with ideas regarding routine tank cleaning.
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Cleaning, Disinfecting and Sterilizing
How they are different and why you need to know |
Read The Terrarium Man article on how to remove mold from your terrariums.
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Cryptosporidium information thread, discusses disinfecting with Peroxide 3%, undiluted.
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Help for the Common Herper - Reptile Cage Cleaning 101 - Article explaining how to clean reptile cages.
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Wiki Vet article "Lizard and Snake Day to Day Practice" addresses cleaning and disinfecting, and has a useful table to help understand what the different kinds of disinfectants are effective against.
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Disinfectants and their Uses - page on Beautiful Dragons explaining the different sanitizers and how to use them.
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