Gold Tegu

The  Tegu

The Tegu (Tupinambis) is a large lizard native to South America.  They are the South American equivalent of the savannah monitor but are not a related species, have a calmer temperament, and are bred in captivity for either their meat and hide, or for introduction into the pet trade.

The general housing requirements for an adult tegu are 8 feet tall by 4 feet wide by 4 feet deep, and hatchlings can be started in a 40 gallon breeder tank initially, but will quickly outgrow this and would require a 4 x 2 x 2 enclosure. Tegus are active creatures and need the space to exercise inside of their enclosure, but they also benefit from time out of their homes to free-roam.  As with any reptile, be certain to 'lizard-proof' the room your tegu is allowed to roam in to prevent injury. 

The idea substrate for a tegu is a non-toxic mulch such as cypress mulch, orchid bark, Repti-bark or eucalyptus mulch approximately 4 - 6 inches deep for burrowing and digging.  They require 60-70% humidity for shedding and general health, and this can be achieved by daily misting of the enclosure.   Use a humidity gauge to verify that you have the proper humidity. 

Xray of a tegu with a large amount of fecal impaction, due to the temps being too low. Cold-blooded reptiles need specific enclosure temperatures in order to properly digest and defecate.

Tegus are diurnal lizards, meaning they are awake during the day and sleep at night.  A 12 hour light cycle is recommended year-round.  If night time heat is needed, use a ceramic heat emitter as the heat source as it gives off no light and will allow your tegu to receive proper heat without disturbing his sleep. Red or colored lights at night are not recommended for tegus and can cause sleep disturbance and eye problems.  The monitor should have a hot basking area on one side of the enclosure, and a cooler side on the opposite side to allow him to thermoregulate.  The basking spot should be rather hot, between 105-110*F with 110*F being optimal.  The ambient temperature of the tank should be between 85-90*F, with a cool side between 75-80*F, and the night time temperature should not go below 70*F. 

Tegus require UVB to produce vitamin D3 and have healthy bones and organs.   A strong UVB is recommended across the hot side of the tank in the basking area.  Mercury Vapor Bulbs are also a good choice for a tegu as they put out high heat and UVB both.  Always measure your enclosure temperatures with a reliable digital sensor/probe thermometer or a temp gun at least weekly to make sure proper heat is supplied to your tegu. 

Rex, 9 year old tegu. Photo courtesy Kayla Goldberg, North Bay Tegu and Monitor Rescue.

The base of a healthy tegus diet in captivity is often fresh lean ground turkey with fruit added and appropriately sized rodents.  As the tegu grows, they can be progressed from eating pinkies to fuzzies, hoppers and adult mice to rats, guinea pigs and ground rabbits.  To avoid cage aggression and possible injury, it is recommended that you feed your tegu pre-killed or frozen/thawed prey.  Eventually, your tegu can eat rat pups, chicks, crayfish, boiled eggs, roaches and other insects, ground turkey and organ meats.   Fruits such as berries, pear, mango and peach should be offered 1 - 2 times a week, as they keep the tegu's bowels regular and also give additional dietary moisture to aid in shedding.  Occasional supplementation with reptile multi-vitamins and calcium should be given in addition to a varied diet.  Because rodents have natural calcium in their bones, a daily calcium supplement is not necessary.  Be sure to provide a water dish large enough for your tegu to take a swim, and change it daily.  Tegus will often defecate inside of their water so it is important to check this and keep it clean.  A helpful tip is to give your tegu a soak before you let him free-roam in the house so he will defecate in the water and not on your floor!

North Bay Tegu and Monitor Rescue care sheet.