The Adventure Gecko Does Hamm - Interview with Lauren Phillips
Lauren Phillips is the owner and breeder at The Adventure Gecko. Recently, she traveled to Hamm, Germany to attend the Hamm Reptile Show. EverythingReptile.org caught up with her over the internet after the show to ask her about the Hamm experience and to give people a feel for what it is like to purchase a reptile overseas. And of course, we snuck in some good old crested gecko care questions, too. Lauren earned her bachelor’s degree in Zoology from Michigan State University, with a concentration on Ecology, Evolution and Organismal Biology. She plans to start graduate school this fall with a focus on Tropical Conservation. She currently keeps around 20 crested geckos, a single R. Leachianus and a new pair of E. Agricolae. She works at Josh’s Frogs in the animal care department.
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Q: We saw some pictures posted online of the entry lines outside of the Hamm show. How long did it take you to get inside?
A: The lines were very long indeed. Zack and I arrived nearly three hours before the show started so that we could get a good spot in line. It was cold, drizzling, and crowded but the wait paid off. We were among the first ten people through the door! When they opened the doors at 10:00AM the crowd pushed so hard from behind us that we hardly needed to walk in—we just slid through the doors. |
Q: Do you have any recommendations for people who are planning to attend the next Hamm show?
A: If you plan to attend Hamm and want to arrive early for a good spot in line and nearby parking, book a close hotel. Book your hotel as early as possible to secure a room before all nearby hotels book completely. Booking your hotel online is best to avoid the language barrier over the phone. The front desks in Germany are rarely open 24 hours for check-in. Plan to arrive at your hotel no later than 20:00 (8:00 PM).
A: If you plan to attend Hamm and want to arrive early for a good spot in line and nearby parking, book a close hotel. Book your hotel as early as possible to secure a room before all nearby hotels book completely. Booking your hotel online is best to avoid the language barrier over the phone. The front desks in Germany are rarely open 24 hours for check-in. Plan to arrive at your hotel no later than 20:00 (8:00 PM).
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Q: Was there a 'Holy Grail' reptile that you were looking for? Did you find it?
A: I made some hefty reptile purchases prior to Hamm so my spending money was more limited than usual. Luckily, prices on crested geckos were very affordable and I was able to pick up two young animals with all of the goals I had in mine. My “Holy Grail” package had to do more with genetic diversity than looks. |
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I wanted one or two geckos with European bloodlines and succeeded in adding both Austrian and Polish lines to my colony back in the states. Good head and crest structure was a must and while I did not have any patterns in mind, both crested geckos were pinstripes.
Q: How does a buyer get the purchased reptile back to the USA from Hamm? How long does the import process take?
A: To get an animal back from Hamm you need to arrange to have them exported from Europe and imported to the USA. This involves finding an importer who has an exporter that will be attending the Hamm show. In this case I went through a friend in the states that had me drop off my purchases at the exporters table. The importer needs to be notified upon purchase of what species they are filling out paperwork for. CITES protected species were prohibited. The timeline varies based on who is involved. I recommend arranging shipment and paying your shipper at least three weeks before the show, possibly even earlier. It takes a while to coordinate all of the rendezvous points with the importer in the USA, the exporter in Europe, and the breeder who will need to meet up with the exporter at Hamm. Connecting these people prior to the show and making sure all parties know the plan can be a lengthy process. If you are curious about the shipping process: The show was on Saturday, the geckos were exported from the Frankfurt airport on Monday, and the geckos arrived in the USA on Wednesday. From there they would need to be shipped within the USA to get to you! The process ranges from $45-$150 per gecko depending on your importer.
A: To get an animal back from Hamm you need to arrange to have them exported from Europe and imported to the USA. This involves finding an importer who has an exporter that will be attending the Hamm show. In this case I went through a friend in the states that had me drop off my purchases at the exporters table. The importer needs to be notified upon purchase of what species they are filling out paperwork for. CITES protected species were prohibited. The timeline varies based on who is involved. I recommend arranging shipment and paying your shipper at least three weeks before the show, possibly even earlier. It takes a while to coordinate all of the rendezvous points with the importer in the USA, the exporter in Europe, and the breeder who will need to meet up with the exporter at Hamm. Connecting these people prior to the show and making sure all parties know the plan can be a lengthy process. If you are curious about the shipping process: The show was on Saturday, the geckos were exported from the Frankfurt airport on Monday, and the geckos arrived in the USA on Wednesday. From there they would need to be shipped within the USA to get to you! The process ranges from $45-$150 per gecko depending on your importer.
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Q: Are any special permits required to bring back a reptile from the Hamm show?
A: It depends on the species. The importer and exporter file paperwork for the appropriate permits on your behalf. As far as I know, there is no airport that allows reptiles as a carry on pet. |
Q: Is this your first reptile-related overseas adventure?
A: It was my first time adventuring with the pet trade in mind and also my first trip to Europe. My pre-graduate school research was in the rainforests of Nicaragua where I saw many reptiles and amphibians, including a bushmaster!
A: It was my first time adventuring with the pet trade in mind and also my first trip to Europe. My pre-graduate school research was in the rainforests of Nicaragua where I saw many reptiles and amphibians, including a bushmaster!
Q: While in Hamm, were you looking for specific genetics? Is there anything unique about overseas bloodlines that you were seeking?
A: Yes and Yes. To elaborate, Austria and Poland had different wild-caught imports back in the mid 90’s. When I was grilling vendors about parents and lineage I let them know that I was interested in genetic diversity more than anything.
A: Yes and Yes. To elaborate, Austria and Poland had different wild-caught imports back in the mid 90’s. When I was grilling vendors about parents and lineage I let them know that I was interested in genetic diversity more than anything.
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Q: When looking for a crested to breed, what main characteristics are you looking for? Do you have any future breeding projects that you are excited about? Did any of the reptiles you found in Hamm complete those projects?
A: The first characteristic that usually draws me to a gecko is the color and pattern, or “morph”. There are certain morphs I favor but I base a purchase off of how the geckos look as a whole. If the gecko does not have good head and crest structure (and if the parents do not either) I will not make a purchase. If the gecko passes my visual exam I inquire about age and verify that the individual is healthy. |
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All of my geckos currently have their tails, but I am not biased against tailless geckos. There are many traits and morphs I enjoy and at this show I added two pinstripes to my clan. Both geckos have nice heads and extensive pattern on their sides. High-contrast is very important to me. Sometimes a gecko with spots is a deal breaker, and sometimes it makes the deal!
Q: Was the Hamm show flooded with a large number of a certain species? Was anything in high demand that you noticed?
A: As with every show, there were plenty of ball pythons. One group I did see plenty of was various Phelsuma and Lygodactylus geckos. There was an impressive variety of gecko species that are uncommon in the United States as well. More dart frog breeders and species of dart frogs were present. Most frogs on the table looked captive bred too, which was refreshing. It was also nice to see an overwhelming number of arachnid and invertebrate tables. I am not a big spider gal but the variety of tarantulas, mantises and land snails was fascinating.
A: As with every show, there were plenty of ball pythons. One group I did see plenty of was various Phelsuma and Lygodactylus geckos. There was an impressive variety of gecko species that are uncommon in the United States as well. More dart frog breeders and species of dart frogs were present. Most frogs on the table looked captive bred too, which was refreshing. It was also nice to see an overwhelming number of arachnid and invertebrate tables. I am not a big spider gal but the variety of tarantulas, mantises and land snails was fascinating.
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Q: What quarantine practices do you use, and do you have a separate quarantine room? Do you do anything different when the gecko is imported from another country versus when you purchase domestic geckos?
A: It depends on my living situation and whom the gecko is coming from. I prefer to keep the gecko in a separate and quieter room. Sometimes if a gecko comes from a close friend I will keep them off the main shelving unit and simply wash my hands (and everything else the gecko touches) before handling other geckos. Because the Hamm geckos are from a different country their quarantine is stricter. They are being kept in a separate room for at least two months and the hand-washing protocol will be followed. The geckos will have specific food dishes that will not be rotated and reused on other geckos. I will also have a fecal exam performed on both geckos when I return to the states. |
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Q: How long do your newly acquired geckos remain in quarantine and what symptoms or problems are you looking for during that time?
A: Minimum quarantine is one month, but if a gecko is from a less familiar breeder or is not thriving it will remain in quarantine longer. My advice is to look for signs of good and bad health and keep a written record of progress. Keep in mind that observations are often carried out at night with a flashlight. At night, look and listen for an active gecko. Observe hunting habits on insects and foraging for their food dish. Locomotion should be even, without jerkiness, twitching, excessive rubbing or scratching. Even breathing (not strained or labored) is very important. Check for poop in the morning and try to examine waste for worms or blood. If there is no poop after a few days try hand feeding and new flavors of their staple fruit diet.
A: Minimum quarantine is one month, but if a gecko is from a less familiar breeder or is not thriving it will remain in quarantine longer. My advice is to look for signs of good and bad health and keep a written record of progress. Keep in mind that observations are often carried out at night with a flashlight. At night, look and listen for an active gecko. Observe hunting habits on insects and foraging for their food dish. Locomotion should be even, without jerkiness, twitching, excessive rubbing or scratching. Even breathing (not strained or labored) is very important. Check for poop in the morning and try to examine waste for worms or blood. If there is no poop after a few days try hand feeding and new flavors of their staple fruit diet.
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Q: We have read about Floppy Tail Syndrome in crested geckos. Is this more or less prevalent in overseas stock?
A: The cause of floppy tail syndrome has not yet been exacted. There is a good chance that the issue stems from genetic and environmental causes. Calcium deficiency, both before and after hatching, may play a huge part in that. I did not see any geckos at Hamm with floppy tail syndrome but I doubt it is not an issue there. When one of my sub-adult geckos started to exhibit a floppy tail, I offered her better horizontal structures and switched her supplements to Miner-all. The FTS has not resurfaced since then. |
Q: Are there any issues with keeping cresteds in groups, such as injuries or feeding problems? What kinds of problems might a keeper encounter when keeping cresteds in pairs, such as a male and female?
A: There are several issues that can arise from keeping geckos in groups. First, the most important thing to remember is that in the wild these animals are solitary. Crested geckos do not need or “enjoy” the company of other geckos. Crested geckos do not get lonely and they do not need friends. While more common in males, females have also been known to exhibit astounding territoriality. One gecko may defend the food and water dishes, or even chase or bite the other gecko. Even in a large cage the geckos can smell each other. This can be stressful on both individuals and stress can be detrimental in reptiles. Injuries resulting in scaring, missing crests, lost tails, and missing toes are all possible. Injuries can be far worse if a larger gecko attacks a small gecko. Multiple males should never be housed together as they are almost guaranteed to fight.
A: There are several issues that can arise from keeping geckos in groups. First, the most important thing to remember is that in the wild these animals are solitary. Crested geckos do not need or “enjoy” the company of other geckos. Crested geckos do not get lonely and they do not need friends. While more common in males, females have also been known to exhibit astounding territoriality. One gecko may defend the food and water dishes, or even chase or bite the other gecko. Even in a large cage the geckos can smell each other. This can be stressful on both individuals and stress can be detrimental in reptiles. Injuries resulting in scaring, missing crests, lost tails, and missing toes are all possible. Injuries can be far worse if a larger gecko attacks a small gecko. Multiple males should never be housed together as they are almost guaranteed to fight.
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Q: Do you have any housing advice for people who are planning to breed their crested geckos?
A: When there is less space in the gecko room, some breeders opt to house multiple geckos in a single enclosure. Female crested geckos or unsexable juvenile geckos can be housed together with careful cage design and adequate space if necessary. Note that some females and even juveniles will not tolerate cage mates and if you have the space it is still best to keep them alone. Insect feedings are rarely even or fair when feeding in an enclosure with multiple geckos and (again) some geckos may guard food dishes and prevent access to food for their cage mate. If you plan to house two geckos together, make sure they are very close in size. Provide multiple hiding places and even multiple food and water dishes. One should make regular observations of face-to-face interactions and food consumption. When it comes to pairing geckos for mating, I opt to introduce the male for short intervals throughout the season. |
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Q: Are there any issues with husbandry that you see other keepers make that drives you nuts? Any cardinal sins of crested gecko keeping that people should be aware of?
A: This is a tough one. There are many practices I do not advocate to new or inexperienced owners that other advanced hobbyists practice without trouble. I personally do not advocate year-round cohabitation between males and females. It can lead to unhealthy weight loss and sometimes relentless males will cause a female to over-lay and suffer from calcium deficiency. Feeding baby food or using a diet that hasn’t been tested or used on a large sample of geckos is also a put-off. I think one of my biggest pet peeves is when people do not feed bugs. It is less important in adults, but growing animals need insects and the proteins they provide. While I am rarely bothered by nuances in speech it drives me crazy to see people use the term “pregnant” or “preggers” for female geckos. Female geckos become gravid--not pregnant.
A: This is a tough one. There are many practices I do not advocate to new or inexperienced owners that other advanced hobbyists practice without trouble. I personally do not advocate year-round cohabitation between males and females. It can lead to unhealthy weight loss and sometimes relentless males will cause a female to over-lay and suffer from calcium deficiency. Feeding baby food or using a diet that hasn’t been tested or used on a large sample of geckos is also a put-off. I think one of my biggest pet peeves is when people do not feed bugs. It is less important in adults, but growing animals need insects and the proteins they provide. While I am rarely bothered by nuances in speech it drives me crazy to see people use the term “pregnant” or “preggers” for female geckos. Female geckos become gravid--not pregnant.
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Q: There have been some forum questions and posts about cresteds dying with a mouthful of substrate and there has been some discussion on forums about loose substrate and soil being a choking hazard. Have you personally experienced this and do you have any substrate recommendations?
A: Well, anything is a choking hazard if you swallow too much of it. I wouldn’t use bark substrates or substrates with sharp shavings (aspen, cypress, etc.) I would caution the exclusive use of sphagnum moss as I have witnessed ingestion and impaction in other species. Paper towel can tear and get caught in the mouth as well, so no substrate is truly “safe.” I use paper towel and Eco-earth bedding. I recommend paper towel for geckos up to ten grams and Eco-earth after that. I also use paper towel for geckos in quarantine or geckos that need their food consumption monitored more closely. Paper towel makes cleaning easy and inexpensive but it can be more difficult to keep humidity up or refrain from soaking the bedding completely. |
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Many thanks to Lauren for taking the time to talk geckos and traveling with us! Please visit The Adventure Gecko online and LIKE her Facebook page: https://www.facebook.com/TheAdventureGecko |
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