Western Hognose Snakes (Heterodon
nasicus) have become increasingly popular as pets. These beautiful creatures belong to the
Colubridae family. They range from as far north as South-Central Canada to as
far south as North-Central Mexico, and in various regions in the United States.
These snakes are indigenous to different parts of the
United States, so it is important to leave them where you find them and opt for
a captive bred animal if you want this species as a pet.
Hognoses get their name due to their upturned noses, their rostral scale, which allows them to dig through substrate to find prey or to burrow. These small snakes are stout in nature. Females can exceed 3 feet in length and males are smaller with a usual length of 1 to 1’ 6” long. With excellent care a Western Hognose snake can live 15 to 20 years (some even longer) in captivity. One should plan on making a long-term commitment when purchasing a Western Hognose for a pet.
For a juvenile Western Hognose a 10 gallon tank will be appropriate. Males will likely not outgrow a 10 gallon enclosure, but adult females should be kept in a 20 gallon. The tank cover should be a locking screen to prevent any escapes. There are rack systems available for keepers with multiple snakes, but be sure to keep size requirements in mind (females 32 quart and males 16 quart size tubs).
Having a thermal gradient is important, as it is with most reptiles. The temperature on the warm size should be 85-95 degrees and the cool side 70-80 degrees. Heat sources recommended are under tank heaters, Flexwatt heat tape or Ultratherm Heat Pads. It is critical that any heat source not come in direct contact with your Hognose and be used in conjunction with a thermostat to avoid accidental overheating. Please never use a heat rock. Heat rocks have been known to overheat and burn reptiles injuring them severely.
Providing hides on both sides of the enclosure is important. It is also important to have a humid hide in the enclosure as well. A humid hide can be made from a food storage container with a hole cut in the side. A soldering iron is ideal for this procedure; using a razor can sometimes shatter the plastic or leave very sharp edges. Some individuals use a moistened paper towel to create a moist hide, others use moistened coconut coir or sphagnum moss.
Substrates for Hognose snakes can be Sani-chips, aspen shavings or newspaper. Cedar or pine are toxic to snakes and should never be used as a substrate. When in doubt about the composition of a substrate it is best to err on the side of caution. The substrate should be spot cleaned daily and a thorough change of substrate done periodically to avoid any health complications from bacterial build up. The substrate in the enclosure should be dry and clean to avoid any respiratory illnesses.
Western Hognose snakes are mostly diurnal (meaning awake during the day and asleep at night), so having a natural light cycle is important to them. They do not require UVB light for their care but having the light cycle is important. Their fossorial (digging) nature typically keeps them protected from the harsh UVB of the sun and they should not be in an enclosure with high UVB light bulbs. One can use a non-heat emitting light for viewing and a light cycle, but no UVB or very low UVB is recommended. One should never put a reptile enclosure next to a window, as it could very easily have a lethal effect with the sunlight coming through the glass causing extremely high heat.
Western Hognose Snakes are rear fanged and mildly venomous. In the wild their prey consists of frogs and toads, small lizards and some rodents. In captivity most hognose snakes will take to eating frozen-thawed mice. You will want to look for a hognose that is an established eater. Babies will sometimes require scenting (with foods such as salmon) to get them to take the food offered. It is recommended to feed them frozen-thawed rodents from a reputable supplier. Once established, babies and juveniles are ravenous eaters. Juveniles should be fed every three days. Adult hognose snakes will eat every three to five days. If your snake appears to be hungry sooner, you may try to feed two to three smaller size prey items instead of opting for a larger mouse. Some owners prefer to use a separate feeding tub for their snakes. Offering the prey with tongs is suggested as well, so the snake does not associate your fingers with food.
Fresh water should be available for your Hognose at all times. A water bowl large enough for your Hognose to fit its entire body into is ideal as they sometimes like to soak themselves. The bowl should be heavy enough that they cannot tip it over. A heavy high-sided ceramic dish is a perfect water bowl for a hognose. It should be filled regularly and the bowl completely sanitized every few days to avoid any bacterial build up. Many owners have a spare bowl to switch out so a clean bowl is always offered.
Hognose snakes have a good disposition overall. Juveniles tend to be more defensive but with some effort will be more docile and accepting of handling. Care should be used when handling your snake so as not to startle it. Washing your hands after touching their prey is important so you do not retain the scent of the prey on your hands. Washing hands before and after handling any reptile is an important habit to develop. When in the defensive mode Hognose snakes may flatten their head, hiss at you, and if really under duress may feign death, which can be disconcerting for a new owner. Being patient and consistent with your Hognose is important, this little snake depends on you for its needs but the rewards are wonderful.
A big thank you goes out to Western Hogs for collaboration on this care sheet.
Hognoses get their name due to their upturned noses, their rostral scale, which allows them to dig through substrate to find prey or to burrow. These small snakes are stout in nature. Females can exceed 3 feet in length and males are smaller with a usual length of 1 to 1’ 6” long. With excellent care a Western Hognose snake can live 15 to 20 years (some even longer) in captivity. One should plan on making a long-term commitment when purchasing a Western Hognose for a pet.
For a juvenile Western Hognose a 10 gallon tank will be appropriate. Males will likely not outgrow a 10 gallon enclosure, but adult females should be kept in a 20 gallon. The tank cover should be a locking screen to prevent any escapes. There are rack systems available for keepers with multiple snakes, but be sure to keep size requirements in mind (females 32 quart and males 16 quart size tubs).
Having a thermal gradient is important, as it is with most reptiles. The temperature on the warm size should be 85-95 degrees and the cool side 70-80 degrees. Heat sources recommended are under tank heaters, Flexwatt heat tape or Ultratherm Heat Pads. It is critical that any heat source not come in direct contact with your Hognose and be used in conjunction with a thermostat to avoid accidental overheating. Please never use a heat rock. Heat rocks have been known to overheat and burn reptiles injuring them severely.
Providing hides on both sides of the enclosure is important. It is also important to have a humid hide in the enclosure as well. A humid hide can be made from a food storage container with a hole cut in the side. A soldering iron is ideal for this procedure; using a razor can sometimes shatter the plastic or leave very sharp edges. Some individuals use a moistened paper towel to create a moist hide, others use moistened coconut coir or sphagnum moss.
Substrates for Hognose snakes can be Sani-chips, aspen shavings or newspaper. Cedar or pine are toxic to snakes and should never be used as a substrate. When in doubt about the composition of a substrate it is best to err on the side of caution. The substrate should be spot cleaned daily and a thorough change of substrate done periodically to avoid any health complications from bacterial build up. The substrate in the enclosure should be dry and clean to avoid any respiratory illnesses.
Western Hognose snakes are mostly diurnal (meaning awake during the day and asleep at night), so having a natural light cycle is important to them. They do not require UVB light for their care but having the light cycle is important. Their fossorial (digging) nature typically keeps them protected from the harsh UVB of the sun and they should not be in an enclosure with high UVB light bulbs. One can use a non-heat emitting light for viewing and a light cycle, but no UVB or very low UVB is recommended. One should never put a reptile enclosure next to a window, as it could very easily have a lethal effect with the sunlight coming through the glass causing extremely high heat.
Western Hognose Snakes are rear fanged and mildly venomous. In the wild their prey consists of frogs and toads, small lizards and some rodents. In captivity most hognose snakes will take to eating frozen-thawed mice. You will want to look for a hognose that is an established eater. Babies will sometimes require scenting (with foods such as salmon) to get them to take the food offered. It is recommended to feed them frozen-thawed rodents from a reputable supplier. Once established, babies and juveniles are ravenous eaters. Juveniles should be fed every three days. Adult hognose snakes will eat every three to five days. If your snake appears to be hungry sooner, you may try to feed two to three smaller size prey items instead of opting for a larger mouse. Some owners prefer to use a separate feeding tub for their snakes. Offering the prey with tongs is suggested as well, so the snake does not associate your fingers with food.
Fresh water should be available for your Hognose at all times. A water bowl large enough for your Hognose to fit its entire body into is ideal as they sometimes like to soak themselves. The bowl should be heavy enough that they cannot tip it over. A heavy high-sided ceramic dish is a perfect water bowl for a hognose. It should be filled regularly and the bowl completely sanitized every few days to avoid any bacterial build up. Many owners have a spare bowl to switch out so a clean bowl is always offered.
Hognose snakes have a good disposition overall. Juveniles tend to be more defensive but with some effort will be more docile and accepting of handling. Care should be used when handling your snake so as not to startle it. Washing your hands after touching their prey is important so you do not retain the scent of the prey on your hands. Washing hands before and after handling any reptile is an important habit to develop. When in the defensive mode Hognose snakes may flatten their head, hiss at you, and if really under duress may feign death, which can be disconcerting for a new owner. Being patient and consistent with your Hognose is important, this little snake depends on you for its needs but the rewards are wonderful.
A big thank you goes out to Western Hogs for collaboration on this care sheet.
care sheets
Pendlehog's Western Hognose Care Sheet
Specialty Serpents Western Hognose Snake Care Sheet
Guide to Wild and Captive Morphs of Western Hognose Snakes